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11 Tips for How Long To Let Primer Dry Miniatures | Vallejo Primer Drying Time
- While I’ll address the negatives in a little bit brush priming is going to be a small batch enterprise. Wash and your degrease your miniatures before you prime and then prime what you can paint. No more painting over dusty primer. No more back-breaking assembly marathons because you’ll be doing everything in small batches, artisanally, just like factory food. - Source: Internet
- Some people love picking colour schemes. I am not one of them. I have no compunction of copying studio schemes for my miniatures. I even started the road to historicals because I was frustrated that the Codex Astartes which dictated the colours and marking of Space Marine Chapters didn’t actually exist for me to reference. - Source: Internet
- If you spend enough time in hobby forums you’ll come across the occasional horror story of spray cans ruining miniatures or otherwise misbehaving. Most of the time this can be attributed to environmental factors. When you spray you mix your paint with the air in your environment and thus have to consider these factors when spraying. With brush priming this isn’t a concern. - Source: Internet
- Since I came to brush priming as a way to avoid spray cans I also apply varnish with a brush as well. It feels like that or every orange-peel primer disaster there are 10 fuzzy varnish apocalypses. Having to strip a bunch of miniatures to reprime is an annoying time-waste. Ruining a labouriously applied paintjob with a white fuzz is heartbreaking. Out of respect for those who’ve experienced it let’s have a minute of silence and then move on. - Source: Internet
- Functionally matte varnish/clear primer works like a normal colored primer. It adheres to the base material well and provides a good surface for the paint to bond to. The flat finish on matte primers gives you a close approximation to the finish on matte primer. You could also use a glossy primer the way they’re used to provide a smooth surface for washes. The benefit is that you leave the base model color (or paint job) showing through. - Source: Internet
- At first you will be tempted to scrub the miniature like the miniature was your teeth and your brush was your toothbrush, the primer is toothpaste and the mold release is plaque. With the same results – it’ll scrub the mold release away and activate your primer’s foaming action. Except in this case foaming isn’t a placebo effect to show you that your toothpaste is working, it’s how you ruin the finish of your miniature. Although, a little scrubbing when you do realize you’ve forgotten to wash the miniature does work. - Source: Internet
- Hopefully some of the points I raised will encourage some painters to try their hand and brush priming. I really recommend the Vallejo primers. They are very forgiving and can be applied unthinned straight from the bottle. By which I mean, don’t thin them, they don’t like being thinned. It’s a chemical thing based on their formula, not their personal preference. - Source: Internet
- Look I know it sounds weird and possibly even useless, but clear primer exists. You probably already have some, though it’s likely labeled “Matte Varnish”. I stumbled on this trick years ago on a painting message board (Editor’s Note: Raf is old). In the way that online arguments can turn suggestions into declarative statements of The One and Only Best True Way to do things, these users swore up and down that matte varnish was not only an option as a primer but the only way you should prime. They were wrong on that front, but they were correct that it is a useful (if rarely applicable) trick. - Source: Internet
- This technique isn’t likely to win you any painting competitions, but it can certainly spice up your gaming table relatively quickly. Whether you’re painting Power Rangers or adding some depth to your Cthulhu Wars miniatures, this technique can save a ton of time and ensure that you’re still matching the rest of the game’s components. You could also use it on pre-painted DnD minis or stuff like X-Wing if you want to do a quick over-paint to make them look nicer. It’s less usesful on Citadel miniatures—though it’ll probably work great on the Purple Sun of Shyish from Malign Sorcery. - Source: Internet
- No, you have to carefully follow the detail just like you would if you were painting, which you are. You want to be quick and you want to be accurate so you get an even coverage and not find missed bits when you want to start painting tomorrow and realize you’ll need another coat of primer. You also don’t want to over-brush the same spots so that the primer can settle and give you are good surface to paint. - Source: Internet
- The only silver parts of this costume are the face mask and the sword. Depending on the paint you use, this may take a few thin coats to get good coverage. Be patient and let it dry between layers. - Source: Internet
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