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12 Tips to Best Hog Hair Brushes For Oil Painting | best hog hair brushes for oil painting
- ANY non-drying oil is a poor choice for brush cleaning: olive oil, corn oil, coconut oil, baby oil, Wesson oil, should not be used for anything in oil painting. The reason is that any of it that gets into the paint that goes on the painting will cause problems. Safflower oil too, is questionable, because there are several varieties of it, some of which do not dry, and of those that do dry, some are now known to re-liquify years later. So my recommendation is to use linseed oil or walnut oil for rinsing brushes while you work, and in the brush tray in between sessions. - Source: Internet
- Virgil: I doubt synthetic brushes can be restored once the bristles have curled. They’ll still be good for something; maybe painting moustaches, beards, grass, etc., so just give them a new assignment, and buy new brushes to do what the curled brushes used to do. - Source: Internet
- Washing brushes in soap that has an abrasive in it will cause the bristles to wear down faster. Years ago I used Lava soap, which has pumice in it, to wash my hog bristle flats in order to wear down the edges and turn them into filberts. But if you don’t want to wear them down, don’t use Lava or any other soap that has an abrasive in it. (The Masters brush soap has an abrasive in it.) - Source: Internet
- The problems with using mineral spirits or any solvent to clean brushes while painting are that 1) you are breathing its vapors and thus jeopardizing your health, and 2) some of the solvent remains in the brush and then gets into the paint that is being applied, potentially compromising the film strength and causing dull spots known as “sinking in.” Thus it is better to use linseed or walnut oil for cleaning brushes while you paint, or, better still, to just use different brushes for different colors, so you need not clean brushes until after the session is over. At that time, mineral spirits can be used as the first stage of cleaning brushes, followed by soap and water, but there is still the exposure to the vapors. This can be minimized by doing the solvent rinse outdoors, of course. - Source: Internet
- Warning: some commercial brush soaps contain clove oil. I recommend avoiding anything with clove oil in it if there is a chance that any of it will get into the paint that goes on the painting. Clove oil in oil paint makes weaker, less durable paint films. - Source: Internet
- I’ve gone back to cleaning each brush with either oil or mineral spirits and then washing with soap (not detergent) and water, no matter how tired I am. After the soap-and-water wash, I hang them from push-pins stuck in the edge of my tabouret, with a binder clip holding the end of each brush handle so the bristles are pointing down. In a given session, I might use as many as 24 brushes, so it does take a lot of time to clean them after I’m done painting for the day. - Source: Internet
- Dried oil paint will come out of brushes with soap and water if the lather is left on the brush for several hours, then rinsed off and re-lathered, as many times as it takes, sometimes over a period of days. The process can be accelerated by soaking them first in Turpenoid Natural for a while. Turpenoid Natural will eat dried oil paint no matter how old it is. Follow with soap and water, and hang the brush to dry, bristles pointing down. - Source: Internet
- Turpenoid Natural shouldn’t affect the glue holding the bristles in the ferrule. I’ve had no problems using it for cleaning brushes. I do always follow with soap and water. - Source: Internet
- Virgil has a section on caring for brushes on page 145 of his book. Some advice there on how to extend the life of a brush includes: avoid getting paint into the brush’s ferrule, where it is almost impossible to remove. Restrict the paint to the forward half of the exposed bristles. - Source: Internet
- Re Linseed oil: Linseed oil is usually available in large quantities at hardware stores and paint stores less expensively than in art supply stores or health food stores. In health food stores it’s called Flax Oil or Flaxseed Oil, for use as a nutritional supplement since it’s high in omega 3 fatty acids. But if it has vitamin E or other preservatives in it, it’s not suitable for art purposes because it won’t dry, so read the label before you buy. Note that hardware store linseed oil is best used only for brush cleaning, as it’s less pure than artist-grade linseed oil, and therefore more likely to darken as it ages. So don’t use hardware store linseed oil for a painting medium or ingredient in a medium. - Source: Internet
- Flax oil with preservative in it would be all right for brush cleaning after the day’s session is over, provided it’s washed out thoroughly afterwards with soap and water. For brush cleaning during a painting session, it would be best not to use any non-drying oil. Preservatives would render flaxseed oil non-drying, or at least would interfere with the natural drying rate, thus making it less than ideal for that purpose. - Source: Internet
- Some people shape their brushes with lard oil: It might be important to note that fine art oil paintings are intended (or should be) to last a lot longer than lettering and striping on signs and vehicles. If any lard oil remains in an oil painting brush and thus gets into the paint going on the canvas, it would work to the detriment of the resulting paint film. So if you use this stuff, wash it out thoroughly afterward, so it doesn’t get into your paintings. - Source: Internet
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