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  • The key lessons to take away from this formula are pretty straight-forward. Start with a base/priming coat that is much lighter than all the other colors you’ll be using (can’t go wrong with white). For a toy-like look, stay away from mattes and satins as your primary coats, and go for the sleeker and shinier semi-gloss and gloss paints. Don’t be afraid to get in there and hand-paint with some acrylics, as this will only add more visual “pop” with your textures. When everything else is done, I finish mine off with Gloss clear-coat, and it makes for a nice, shiny “plastic” look, which is exactly what we want here. - Source: Internet
  • If you’re going on the cheap and don’t want to use powder finishes on plastic (trust me, it’s a pain), try applying black Semi-Gloss instead of matte for your metal. Yes, it’s going to dry a bit “shiny,” but we’ll address this in just a moment with our clear coat. I find that semi-gloss paint (or even satin) has a far smoother texture when dried in my local climate, so it makes the blaster both look and feel less “homemade” in the end. - Source: Internet
  • Orange, on the other hand, turned out to be very specific. I tried many products from several brands before I finally “settled” on yet another Citadel product. There really wasn’t much orange painting to do, save an accent here or there, and for those I slapped on some Troll Slayer Orange. One word of warning: since it is a Layer paint, it’s a touch runny and imprecise compared to their Bases. Still, it turned out nicely enough. - Source: Internet
  • Once all is said and done, you should protect your paint job with a nice Satin clear-coat to give it a smooth, not-too-shiny finish. Stay away from semi-gloss and gloss, as they’ll be too shiny (and again, I find that matte both looks and feels awful). Follow these tips, and I think you’ll be happy with the results. That’s what I did with my “DM-24 heavy blaster,” seen below, and I am very happy with the results. It’s not all black and uses a few techniques we haven’t covered here, but it gives you an idea as to how “realistic” these paints can get. - Source: Internet
  • Why, yes. Yes it is! While I won’t lie and say my brush work is the best in the world, I’m very happy with how this came out. It’s also a great example of how we can play with colors and textures to create something that looks like Hasbro put it out themselves (or should have, cough cough). For such an application, I played with a lot of different paints before I found ones I liked, so don’t feel bad if you have to experiment a bit, as well. For my own purposes, I came up with this “master” formula: - Source: Internet
  • Our black “is black is black,” but for my purposes I hand-painted the Vulcan’s lettering with Citadel’s Abbadon Black. You don’t really need a specific black to match Hasbro’s shade. It’s pretty forgiving. I just had the Citadel paints sitting around. - Source: Internet
  • The blue is another Rustoleum product: Deep Blue Gloss. I played around with a lot of other blues before settling on this one for all of my “Elite” painting. To my eyes, it looks the closest. Not quite spot-on, but good enough when you don’t want a custom batch made at your local paint shops. - Source: Internet
  • Metal is a tricky thing, as so many people go for a “steel” or “brushed steel” paint right away, only to be disappointed when it dries “too dark.” If this has happened to you, try Rustoleum’s metallic Aluminum spray instead. I’ve had great results with it. It also takes to washes quite well, allowing you to give it a “grimy” look without much effort. - Source: Internet
  • Tactical rails can be tricky if they’re not pre-colored, especially since you may want to add accessories but don’t want the colors to rub off. I would suggest using a vinyl dye if you intend to use the rails frequently. It’ll adhere to the material a touch better than paint, and if it goes on well (results may vary), the texture should be quite smooth. Likewise, it’s highly unlikely that scratching up your rails with accessories will harm said dye, since it’s more or less bonded with your materials rather than merely sitting atop them. - Source: Internet
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