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9 Reference List: Best Waterproof Primer For Drywall | Pva Drywall Primer
- If the wood species won’t leech tannins into the paint, use either a quality acrylic latex or an oil-base exterior wood primer. For woods that will stain the paint, apply an oil-base stain-blocking primer. Prime and paint bare wood within two weeks of installation to prevent the wood fibers from deteriorating and reducing adhesion. Weathered, unpainted wood: Sand the wood thoroughly before priming to remove deteriorated wood fibers, which will compromise primer adhesion. Remove the dust, then apply a quality latex or oil-base primer shortly after preparing the surface. - Source: Internet
- New unpainted wood: If the wood species won’t leech tannins into the paint, use either a quality acrylic latex or an oil-base exterior wood primer. For woods that will stain the paint, apply an oil-base stain-blocking primer. Prime and paint bare wood within two weeks of installation to prevent the wood fibers from deteriorating and reducing adhesion. - Source: Internet
- Primer is specially formulated to bond to raw wood and to seal porous surfaces such as drywall. Drywall and drywall joint compound soak up paint fast, and if you’ve invested in high-quality paint, you want your investment on the wall, not in it. For best results, prime all drywall joint compound and let the primer dry. Then prime the entire surface of the wall. - Source: Internet
- Closely related to primers, sealers are formulated to make a porous surface non-porous. They are also used to cover knots and mildew to keep them from showing through the finish coats. You’ll find oil-base sealers, as well as products with reactive resins and epoxies. Most of these products clean up with strong petroleum solvents. Use sealers when working with the following surfaces: - Source: Internet
- Primer typically dries rapidly so you can apply the finish coat sooner. A good primer saves time, effort, and money. Consider having your primer tinted to the color of your paint so the paint covers better. (Your paint retailer can typically do this for you.) - Source: Internet
- Remove any white, powdery oxide using a nonmetallic scouring pad or abrasive. Then apply a corrosion-inhibitive metal primer to all exposed bare metal. Ferrous metals: Wire-brush any rust, rinse, let dry, and apply two coats of a latex or oil-base rust-inhibitive primer. - Source: Internet
- On new masonry, or older porous surfaces, use a latex masonry sealer or primer. On previously painted masonry, you need to seal only spots where the old paint has been removed during surface preparation or by weathering. Aluminum or galvanized iron: Remove any white, powdery oxide using a nonmetallic scouring pad or abrasive. Then apply a corrosion-inhibitive metal primer to all exposed bare metal. - Source: Internet
- Many homeowners, in a rush to complete a project, skip the primer and go right to the color coats. This shortcut often backfires because it might take an extra coat of color to get complete coverage. Because primer is typically cheaper than paint, that represents both wasted time and money. - Source: Internet
- On raw interior wood, oil-based primers ($35, The Home Depot) might be a better choice because of their surface penetration. On the exterior, a latex primer ($22, The Home Depot) will last longer because it’s more flexible and can expand and contract with changes in temperature instead of cracking. There are a number of different kinds of primers, including oil-base, shellac-base, and water-base, and each has its own specialty. Ask your paint retailer for a recommendation on which product to use on the surface you’re painting. - Source: Internet
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