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- 1/8” is the standard spacing for a flooring grout line, but will depend on the type of tile, its size, and the pattern being created. (In general, you’re never going to dip below 1/8” for flooring, but could have a grout line that’s 1/4” or 1/2”.) Using spacers—like those shown below—will ensure an even grout-line throughout the project, so unless you really trust yourself, don’t attempt to freestyle. - Source: Internet
- Then, the spreading process begins. Working in a manageably small-sized section (think 3’ x 3’ at most) and using a special, trowel-like tool known as a “grout float,” spread the grout as evenly as possible over the empty spaces between the tiles at a 90-degree angle, filling in the joints while wiping away excess grout. The grout will begin to harden after a few minutes—success is near!—but the next step is one that often hangs up DIYers. - Source: Internet
- If you plan to DIY, thinking about tile and grout as two parts of an aesthetic whole can make the installation process easier. “When you’re laying tile, keep a bristle brush with you and a bucket of water,” counsels general contractor Mark Clements, who uses the brush to remove any excess mortar when installing the tiles prior to the grouting stage. “That will save you a day when you get ready to grout.” - Source: Internet
- Using a “grout sponge” (essentially, a heavy-duty kitchen sponge), wipe the tiles in a circular motion, paying extra attention not to disrupt the edges of the grout line. Being careful is the name of the game here: you can end up spreading wet grout around on the tile and making messy, excess work. Fortunately, general contractor Joe Truini has a trick. - Source: Internet
- When it comes to selecting a color, consider that grout will likely darken overtime thanks to dirt brought in from foot traffic. And there’s also the grout-to-tile ratio to be aware of. With smaller tiles, the grout lines will be more prominent because the tiles themselves take up less space. The two will work more in tandem than with larger tiles, where the grout will take more of a backseat. - Source: Internet
- Unless purchased pre-mixed, it’s important to thoroughly mix your grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the most colorfast and consistent result possible. After all, no one is on the hunt for tie-dye grout. After mixing, grout rests for a while to allow the water to fully penetrate the dry ingredients, a process known as “slaking.” - Source: Internet
- Sanded grout is used when joints—the space between the tiles—are greater than 1/8” and is the go-to for most flooring projects due to the fact it’s more resistant to cracking. Unsanded grout, on the other hand, is a thinner consistency, and better suited for vertical tile-work, like a back splash. (An exception to the rule is when you’re working with a softer material like marble, which needs unsanded grout due to its delicate nature.) - Source: Internet
- “The grout sponge rapidly becomes saturated with grout—you can only wipe the sponge across so much and it’s full, and then you’re just moving it around,” he says. “So, the formula for wiping down grout is count, ‘One, two—flip the sponge—three, ring it out.’” This process of wiping and rinsing may need to be repeated several times, especially if you are using dark-colored grout that is green or black. - Source: Internet
- It’s time, though, that these showpieces start sharing the spotlight—and credit!—with their sidekick: grout. is a veritable one-stop shop for tilework, whether you plan to hire a professional or DIY a tile floor (or even a backsplash or shower). Knowing a thing or two about grouting will help you either way. - Source: Internet
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